tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20128547660911269072024-03-13T05:57:11.446-07:00戶倉恆信的「和食」劄記箸に始まり箸に終わる・・・
とくらつねのぶの「わしょく」さっきUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012854766091126907.post-84421953563222356892017-08-24T19:22:00.000-07:002017-08-24T20:08:48.833-07:00茶具的選擇與搭配的方法<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , serif; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #4c1130; font-size: large;">將近一年前,有位朋友邀請筆者參加台灣的茶會。就從事傳統和食器的設計及修繕的筆者而言,能夠獲得參與認識台灣茶室文化的機會,有助於對照兩地茶飲發展史,也可以理解其中的美意識。茶會當天,接收到有關茶具修繕的一些詢問,就開始摸索適合台灣茶具的修繕法該如何。後來,陸續接到修理的委託,自然而然歸納了茶壺底與茶壺蓋的破損傾向,因此對於茶具的選擇與搭配的方法上產生了好奇。面對茶道具的妙趣,乃是將所累積的修繕知識反映到器皿的設計並調節材質關係,提高實用關係而降低其破損率。近世茶人之所以同時擔任茶具的設計、創作以及修繕,並不是沒有理由的。</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #4c1130;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-size: large;">台灣與日本,同樣接受了中國的茶飲慣習並發展出各自喜好的茶室文化。就日本而言,以禪修中所謂「刪除不必要」作為基本原理,以茶室內外的人、事、物視為追究簡潔的辯證關係,早在十六世紀就完成了這「非日常」的藝文空間。相對地,台灣的茶室是以延伸於桌面品茶的「日常」作為前提,先從家具的擺置進而講究茶具的搭配法。</span></span></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="color: #4c1130;"><span style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-size: large;">《清香流動:品茶的遊</span></span></span><span style="color: #4c1130; font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">戲》的作者解致璋說到
</span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #4c1130; font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">:</span><span style="color: #4c1130; font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">「品茶的空間設計以家具為主,花木為輔」。這恰好對應著茶室內未運用「家具」概念的日本。日本的茶人,在茶室內始終關注人與物、事與物之間的實用關係與其效率而定律化。至於台灣的茶人,如同衣櫃前選服裝一般,先選擇墊在桌面的茶巾,再依個人的美感將茶具自由選擇並擺置。因此解致璋有接著說</span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #4c1130; font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> :</span><span style="color: #4c1130; font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">「茶席隨著桌面的條件設計、調整,十分靈活,不是一成不變的,它的美感可以是千變萬化的」。</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju9new7QRGtgO9SwPskhWu5x-j89MSc3jWw5nHsiZqE6kreL8rzGIg8JXiz6a0a_pZDgFfxhZwAtwMHE59EQrbriUwh0qC0iO99kH1boDiBeKi8Z-QfIGQ6DUmaDPYvEmftTfBchjmF6B5/s1600/%25E8%258C%25B6%25E5%2585%25B7%25E7%259A%2584%25E9%2581%25B8%25E6%2593%2587%25E8%2588%2587%25E6%2590%25AD%25E9%2585%258D.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="472" data-original-width="654" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju9new7QRGtgO9SwPskhWu5x-j89MSc3jWw5nHsiZqE6kreL8rzGIg8JXiz6a0a_pZDgFfxhZwAtwMHE59EQrbriUwh0qC0iO99kH1boDiBeKi8Z-QfIGQ6DUmaDPYvEmftTfBchjmF6B5/s320/%25E8%258C%25B6%25E5%2585%25B7%25E7%259A%2584%25E9%2581%25B8%25E6%2593%2587%25E8%2588%2587%25E6%2590%25AD%25E9%2585%258D.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">解致璋《清香流動:品茶的遊戲》中 "茶具的選擇與搭配" 一節</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #4c1130;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">無論台灣或日本,茶室中同樣沒有絲毫會干擾心靜的雜音,然而假設有疲憊的旅人,他應該會選擇踏進台灣的茶室。</span></span></span><span style="color: #4c1130;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">因為</span></span></span><span style="color: #4c1130; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">日本的茶室,必須先把身心調節為正式的風貌。關於這一點,可活用民俗學者柳田國男<span lang="EN-US">(YANAGIDA Kunio : 1875-1962)</span>所提出的:日本社會中「</span><span style="background: white; font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif;">霽<span lang="EN-US">(HARE)</span>」和「褻<span lang="EN-US">(KE)</span>」,此一「非日常與日常」的範疇。</span></span><span style="color: #4c1130; font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">台灣的茶室所預設的,乃是「日常<span lang="EN-US"> (</span>世間<span lang="EN-US">)</span>」該存有的怡然自得的文人風貌。因此,自由律俳句家荻原井泉水<span lang="EN-US">(OGIWARA Seisensui : 1884-1976) </span>曾有批評<span lang="EN-US"> : </span>日本的「一般茶道中所教導的『御作法』僅適用於『御茶室』內,如果將它落實於『世間』,就完全不會產生什麼意義。」正因為如此,以下嘗試將日本茶人所推行的「御作法」落實於台灣的茶室文化之上。那麼,也許可以實現介於「日常與非日常」的文藝交流。</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZTf7czBBzrex_h6D1RTfF30-h91xGDNcOamCIG-W9VkNby5r412XLjtlS8VG4YRlmGGoQBLBL86Yh4OpnRa2RZJQSrqrWUJSXP7QiV_UIvwJTyJzhwoHyhKwYZMQKaF1wbZ8zieMNGJtd/s1600/%25E6%25B0%25B4%25E5%25B1%258B%25E5%25B7%25A5%25E4%25BD%259C.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZTf7czBBzrex_h6D1RTfF30-h91xGDNcOamCIG-W9VkNby5r412XLjtlS8VG4YRlmGGoQBLBL86Yh4OpnRa2RZJQSrqrWUJSXP7QiV_UIvwJTyJzhwoHyhKwYZMQKaF1wbZ8zieMNGJtd/s1600/%25E6%25B0%25B4%25E5%25B1%258B%25E5%25B7%25A5%25E4%25BD%259C.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">水屋的工作 (圖片:日本茶道塾HP)</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #4c1130;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-size: large;">日本的茶室外側,通常有設置「水屋<span lang="EN-US">(Mizuya)</span>」,此為清洗並收納茶具的空間。水屋的主結構,不例外地由軟質木材組成,並在水槽上鋪滿細竹竿,避免漆器、陶器、瓷器、銅器、鐵器等材質的器皿受損。這就像為了保護鐵釜,釜蓋的材質選擇以銅為主一般,從茶室的外側考量器具之間的接觸情況。例如,放置鐵釜的釜敷不例外地選擇木製;陶瓷製水桶上通常選擇不易腐敗又比水桶還軟質的檜木蓋。由此觀之,台灣的茶具選擇與搭配上似乎有調節的餘地。例如,台灣茶藝上所使用的,承接淋壺熱水的「壺承」,它是墊在茶壺下方的容器,如果茶壺選擇陶器,那麼不該使用比該茶壺硬質的壺承。筆者認為,台灣茶道上最常見的宜興紫砂壺,最好搭配木製拭漆塗的壺承。</span></span></span><span style="color: #4c1130; font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">因為天然漆器不僅撥水性很高,而且在此所謂「拭漆</span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #4c1130; font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">(Fukiurushi)</span><span style="color: #4c1130; font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">」並不像有鏡面處理的漆器,不太會容易產生摩擦痕而能夠保護陶壺,事後的修繕也容易。同樣地,「蓋置」的材質,也可以考慮使用搭配拭漆器,或不上釉又低溫燃燒的軟質陶器。台灣的茶道上,因為優先考慮降低壺蓋吸附蓋置的雜味,所以往往被選擇玉石等硬質材料。然而,倘若蓋置的硬度過於壺蓋,則難免會提高壺蓋內側的破損率。</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNnQXXPCQzFnQ9s_dV85z2-oEzwbcuKBx-IVCs5TZFIriYvkYEvNt1DPV596IcGZ2U7fmgxLAX3igON5pH6Qnrk69IxZ7H9OkdtIcqhzux1QHuy5_liPk_anveGhY2sK6gkpm1ZxLDsgBM/s1600/%25E6%25BC%2586%25E5%2599%25A8%25E5%25A3%25BA%25E6%2589%25BF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="546" data-original-width="720" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNnQXXPCQzFnQ9s_dV85z2-oEzwbcuKBx-IVCs5TZFIriYvkYEvNt1DPV596IcGZ2U7fmgxLAX3igON5pH6Qnrk69IxZ7H9OkdtIcqhzux1QHuy5_liPk_anveGhY2sK6gkpm1ZxLDsgBM/s320/%25E6%25BC%2586%25E5%2599%25A8%25E5%25A3%25BA%25E6%2589%25BF.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">筆者試作的木製漆器壺承 (圖片:小隱堤供)</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #4c1130;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">參與前述的茶會不久,筆者拿到側面有一條裂縫的宜興紫茶壺。就僅一條裂縫的情形而言,通常在裂縫處灌入生漆就可,但茶壺主人向筆者詢問在裂縫上補釘<b>――</b>鎹止<span lang="EN-US">(Kasugai Dome)</span>。當時,筆者以「刪除不必要」而建議
<span lang="EN-US">: </span>僅一條裂處,並無打鎹止之必要。然而,後來意會主人欲把裂痕轉換為「裝飾」,筆者反而接受了這需求。因為理解到台灣的茶室內,個人的美意識凌駕於事物的實用性、甚至茶具的材質關係。雖然,台日兩地都有說「茶禪一味」,但可以說其中存有的差異,就是來自與「日常」之間的距離所構成的美意識。</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Kt_eTGV3yjO5lPG12tm9JTfLNy_7leVIgT5w8aSKfDw9z4zxLzxoRJofqLpbt3p04canT_vb1PBPHKkZNcR2g6hStiUvP2PkYOicMvhT1a5DM_4IuqB3kEevWJ8Czdwxje7y0fItsy1M/s1600/%25E8%25A3%259C%25E9%2587%2598.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="960" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Kt_eTGV3yjO5lPG12tm9JTfLNy_7leVIgT5w8aSKfDw9z4zxLzxoRJofqLpbt3p04canT_vb1PBPHKkZNcR2g6hStiUvP2PkYOicMvhT1a5DM_4IuqB3kEevWJ8Czdwxje7y0fItsy1M/s320/%25E8%25A3%259C%25E9%2587%2598.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">筆者所補釘(鎹止)的宜興茶壺</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #4c1130;"><span style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">參考: 自由時報,</span></span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: 黑體, Verdana, 微軟正黑體, 新細明體, Arial, Geneva, sans-serif, helvetica; font-size: large; font-weight: inherit; text-align: start;"><a href="http://news.ltn.com.tw/news/life/breakingnews/2165635">日人戶倉恆信 教授大家茶具選擇與搭配</a></span><br />
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial unicode ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 10.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></b>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012854766091126907.post-47612557137400735182016-06-19T20:51:00.003-07:002016-06-19T20:51:58.284-07:00日本人都會搖頭,躊躇猶豫的「侘」<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;"><span style="color: #4c1130;"> 國際間談論日本的傳統美,幾乎沒有例外地言及「侘」<span lang="EN-US">(Wabi) </span>或「侘寂」<span lang="EN-US">(Wabi-Sabi)</span>一詞。換言之,若不能理解「侘」或「侘寂」,就等於無法深論日本的傳統美。但很有趣的是,李歐納•科仁<span lang="EN-US"> (Leonard Koren</span>,<span lang="EN-US">1948-)</span>說:「如果問起<span lang="EN-US"> Wabi-Sabi</span>是什麼,日本人都會搖頭,躊躇猶豫。」這可能是因為難以翻譯成其他語詞<span lang="EN-US">(untranslatable
words)</span>,所以才被列入為該文化體系的關鍵詞。而試圖回答「侘是什麼?」的久松真一<span lang="EN-US">(HISAMATSU
Shinichi</span>,<span lang="EN-US">1889-1980)</span>,他歸納「侘」的構成要素為:不均齊、簡素、枯高、自然、幽玄、脫俗、靜寂七種性格。然而,即使理解這些要素仍然產生「侘是什麼」的疑問。因此,我們不必先鎖定問「什麼」<span lang="EN-US">(What)</span>而試著問「如何」<span lang="EN-US">(How)</span>,再面對「侘是什麼」。<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9fHF0jN9wqF6O2lQ0xVfuYUIaJTxmXjSspC1pc3zrwpmg3YC7XBfU7ORYs3bFRWPj4BHmRm6ZRLP8tn75DbJo3D3NjAOJiH0QaYoJ4oKsx0BypJpM8S9n2OfLjKLwWnSAAQ014U4-E686/s1600/HAGI+CITY.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9fHF0jN9wqF6O2lQ0xVfuYUIaJTxmXjSspC1pc3zrwpmg3YC7XBfU7ORYs3bFRWPj4BHmRm6ZRLP8tn75DbJo3D3NjAOJiH0QaYoJ4oKsx0BypJpM8S9n2OfLjKLwWnSAAQ014U4-E686/s320/HAGI+CITY.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">作者攝影 (C)2015 </td></tr>
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<span style="color: #4c1130;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">《楚辭•離騷》有「<span style="background: white;">忳鬰邑余侘傺兮,吾獨窮困乎此時也」一文,東漢王逸對「侘傺」給予「失志貌」的註解。</span></span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">八世紀編撰的《萬葉集》中有「物思ふと
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<a name='more'></a><span style="color: #4c1130;">寐ねず起きたる朝明には わびて鳴くなり 庭つ鳥さへ」<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">(</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">思念不成眠,晨起聞鳥侘鳴</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">)</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">等言及「侘」的和歌。</span><span style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">也就是說</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">,近世以前的「侘」,無論中日文語境中皆表達悲哀、不得志等描寫一種「不完全」的心情。而接下來日本特有的發展,十四世紀以禪修思想作為媒介,使「侘」成為一個獨立範疇的美意識。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #4c1130;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">禪研究者,鈴木大拙<span lang="EN-US">(SUZUKI Daisetsu</span>,<span lang="EN-US">1870-1966)</span>說:「『侘』,雖然明明是缺點、缺陷,但如今並不認為如此。以不完全的形象當作完全,事實上一般所謂的美,也未必僅是完全的形態。從不完全甚至是醜的形象之中體現美,這就是日本美術家所展現的妙技,而將不完全的美伴以衰殘或原始性格,就開始出現鑑賞家所讚美的『寂』。」於是將不完全與完全的顛覆過程中,認識主體逐漸感受「侘」的美意識。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;"><span style="color: #4c1130;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 新細明體; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;"><span style="color: #4c1130;">能夠體現「侘」空間,如「茶禪一味」一詞,以茶人所建作的「小間茶室」<span lang="EN-US">(Koma-Chashitsu)</span>作為代表。在不到兩坪的小空間裡,茶人佈下顛覆舊與新、劣與優等相對概念的契機。美術家岡倉覺三<span lang="EN-US">(Okakura Kakuzou</span>,<span lang="EN-US">1863-1913)</span>言:「真美,是由心中達成『不完全』的人發現的。」的確,禪僧讚美「侘茶人」的千宗旦<span lang="EN-US">(SEN-no-Soutan</span>,<span lang="EN-US">1578-1658)</span>,而他卻被世間嘲諷為「貧乏茶人」。這樣的價值分歧,就是在茶室主人為客人準備的「懷石」<span lang="EN-US">(Kaiseki)</span>一詞上看得見。在十六世紀時以「家不漏水,食事不飢餓」為原則的「懷石」,菜餚不超過「一汁三菜」。這不外乎與顛覆缺與足的茶禪一味之呼應。<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWxEfTeOojluvVy-XfGHRoNJUK-sH9VhDaqBjHm0OTxvkEqSZCoLzQN-t7P1_ZslV21MCYmCXM4ZnzmYcwSrn6y0AMuE8t3dG59CLzUDauSuuHDkQwlAbDQmXEhU80wDbNLhfKADVd66Vn/s1600/%25E8%258A%25B1%25E6%25B1%259F%25E8%258C%25B6%25E4%25BA%25AD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWxEfTeOojluvVy-XfGHRoNJUK-sH9VhDaqBjHm0OTxvkEqSZCoLzQN-t7P1_ZslV21MCYmCXM4ZnzmYcwSrn6y0AMuE8t3dG59CLzUDauSuuHDkQwlAbDQmXEhU80wDbNLhfKADVd66Vn/s320/%25E8%258A%25B1%25E6%25B1%259F%25E8%258C%25B6%25E4%25BA%25AD.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">花江茶亭 (萩城花江御殿內)</span></td></tr>
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然而,世間一般所謂懷石料理,不但追究外觀的「完全」度,而成為有錢者才能體驗的奢華料理。同樣的,在日本有不少推廣茶道的學門,似乎已成為有錢有閒者才得以踏入的道場,而非思索如何「侘」的空間。或許這是「如果問起<span lang="EN-US"> Wabi-Sabi</span>是什麼,日本人都會搖頭,躊躇猶豫」而難以回答的另一層因素吧。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: yellow; mso-highlight: yellow;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012854766091126907.post-61117576341485270332016-06-07T00:20:00.000-07:002016-06-07T01:09:19.505-07:00傳統漆器與仿造漆器<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #660000;"><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"> 近年,台灣有些日本料理店開始以傳統漆器款待客人。所謂傳統漆器是指由木地師<span lang="EN-US">(Kiji-shi)</span>與塗師<span lang="EN-US">(Nuri-shi)</span>合作製成的,採用天然漆<span lang="EN-US">(Japanese Lacquer)</span>手塗於純木製器的生活工藝品。這件事實,顯示台灣的日本料理界也開始注重傳統料理與傳統食器之間的關聯性。在此所謂「傳統漆器」一詞所隱喻的是,無論日本或台灣的餐飲界皆普遍採用以合成樹脂</span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> (</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">synthetic resin)</span><span style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">大量生產</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">「仿造漆器」<span lang="EN-US">(JAPANNING)</span>的事實。本來從事傳統料理的廚師所要展現的,就不僅是椀盤上的食物而已,消費者僅關心高<span lang="EN-US">CP</span>值<span lang="EN-US">(</span>所謂俗擱大碗<span lang="EN-US">)</span>與經營者僅關心高利潤的結果,導致難以採用傳統漆器這類高成本的餐具。換言之,目前少數店主選用傳統漆器,不但逐漸可提升消費者對於所謂「和食」的認知,也讓產業界重新面對「仿造漆器」的買賣與造假行為之間的關係。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLvMankLzX-39adHc1GVoSWEb1ez7sT2sSuI1oIke8ahWV5irbZ3UK_nHSEeIq2HAJY6X_IUepCSI_mpvvwpaQlAAoT_poxOLGaHDUDJh-6TceNEis7GAw31J7dIqq-Z-tb78TTWn1gciX/s1600/%25E5%2582%25B3%25E7%25B5%25B1%25E6%25BC%2586%25E5%2599%25A8%25E8%2588%2587%25E5%2592%258C%25E4%25B8%2589%25E7%259B%2586%25E7%25B3%2596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLvMankLzX-39adHc1GVoSWEb1ez7sT2sSuI1oIke8ahWV5irbZ3UK_nHSEeIq2HAJY6X_IUepCSI_mpvvwpaQlAAoT_poxOLGaHDUDJh-6TceNEis7GAw31J7dIqq-Z-tb78TTWn1gciX/s400/%25E5%2582%25B3%25E7%25B5%25B1%25E6%25BC%2586%25E5%2599%25A8%25E8%2588%2587%25E5%2592%258C%25E4%25B8%2589%25E7%259B%2586%25E7%25B3%2596.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">傳統漆器與和三盆糖 (圖片 茶室花江 堤供)</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #660000;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">其實日本社會將「傳統漆器」納入自我認同的要素,是進入本世紀的事情。</span></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="color: #660000;"><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">第一個契機是,北海道函館市</span><span style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; letter-spacing: .15pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Meiryo;">垣</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; letter-spacing: .15pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Meiryo; mso-fareast-language: JA;">ノ</span><span style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; letter-spacing: .15pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Meiryo;">島(<span lang="EN-US">Kakinoshima</span>)<span lang="EN-US">B</span>遺跡</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">中所出土約九千年前的漆器。此考古學的新聞,引發產業人士重新認識世界飲食文化史中「日本」的位置,而呼應了近世貿易上歐洲人將日本的漆器工藝稱為「<span lang="EN-US">JAPAN</span>」的史實,進而對照淹沒於「仿造漆器」的現代生活。第二契機是,<span lang="EN-US">2013</span>年聯合國科教文組織將「和食」登錄為無形文化遺產,國際間開始審視日本料理的食膳中是否傳承了傳統食膳文化的精神。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRDZdc_XxPJSaBZJliIBPHc-0No46pT4apaTsaqm88Ilc0GXB9sXlerVcoWUIjLpVhHUhCgKRIFR5Pyo8QO3eYFkB76d4NjgzlDXWjNRotDlVjdZmU64B7G-MhRPEKpt_bIVafgiQUNw9/s1600/%25E6%25BC%2586%25E5%2599%25A8%25E7%259B%2583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRDZdc_XxPJSaBZJliIBPHc-0No46pT4apaTsaqm88Ilc0GXB9sXlerVcoWUIjLpVhHUhCgKRIFR5Pyo8QO3eYFkB76d4NjgzlDXWjNRotDlVjdZmU64B7G-MhRPEKpt_bIVafgiQUNw9/s320/%25E6%25BC%2586%25E5%2599%25A8%25E7%259B%2583.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">優雅的傳統漆器酒盃 (圖片: 茶室花江堤供)</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #660000;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">關於餐桌上傳統漆器消失的原因,產業研究者山本勝己<span lang="EN-US">(YAMAMOTO Katsumi)</span>提出了幾種可能。其一,缺乏思索如何活用傳統原料與原有技術,僅應付時代的需求,而怠惰於新產品的研發。其二,雖然生產者能夠因應原料漆、木材等供需結構的變化,然而因為普遍使用合成樹脂</span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> (</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">synthetic resin)</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">,結果市面上大量供給廉價且與漆無關的仿造漆器,進而破壞了傳統漆器的形象。其三,既然使用了合成樹脂材質及合成樹脂塗料等新原料,但是並無研發與傳統漆器之間可以區隔的新興製品
<span lang="EN-US">(</span>《漆百科》丸善<span lang="EN-US">2008)</span>。結果,<span class="s5">市面上充斥了以木粉 混合合成樹脂粉作為基本結構</span>,而以噴槍噴上合成樹脂塗料的「仿造漆器」,甚至這些以「傳統漆器」之偽名高價流通。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">和食,自始以食器作為展現料理的前提條件。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">因此在日本就有「和食是吃容器」</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">(</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">和食は器を食す</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">)</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">的俗語。</span></span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="color: #660000;">到了二十世紀,產業結構與消費型態的大轉變,雖然帶來了我們生活上的便利,但因追究高效率而相對流失了有體溫的傳統技術,而人人皆不自覺地陷入「仿造」的物質世界之中。國際間開始審視是否傳承了傳統文化的精神,這等於考驗我們如何斷絕淹沒於合成樹脂的生活環境。</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="color: #660000;">參見 :自由電子報</span></span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #660000;"><a href="http://talk.ltn.com.tw/article/breakingnews/1721776">《傳統漆器與仿造漆器》</a></span></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012854766091126907.post-14860302858071041522015-06-12T03:55:00.005-07:002015-06-12T04:22:23.374-07:00禁「肉食」與說「薬喰」<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 17.15pt; margin-bottom: 7.5pt; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #783f04;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 17.15pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 17.15pt;">「在明治維新以前日本人是不吃肉的」,筆者在台灣偶爾會聽到這樣的歷史命題。它常被提到,理由是因為日本受佛教影響,在史上也多次出現「禁止肉食之詔」之故。然而,因宗教信念而頒布的禁令,就如同美國禁酒法一般,限制民眾某行為的前提必須是已有該習俗。所以在執行該詔令之前後,甚至是執行</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 17.15pt; text-align: left;">期間仍維持這樣的慣習,如此的解釋才妥當。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="color: #783f04;">《日本書記,天武天皇》中記載:「庚寅,詔諸國曰,自今以後制諸魚獵者莫造檻穽及施機槍等之類,亦四月朔以後九月三十日以前莫置比滿沙伎理梁,且莫食牛馬犬猿雞之宍,以外不在禁例。」<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2PM3JcoiHLIQQMbPC6-6SpoiNFajNSErmXVyM68eDI-6hgJgiS47Q7WdZmpNQwfhnF0jJ6mDaVDzQzznh23mr70q4tDLjsa2EZmKxLB9nhnErL9KbmpbwtoUF7X3nMmHdYT5gFukFYVB6/s1600/%25E6%2597%25A5%25E6%259C%25AC%25E6%259B%25B8%25E8%25A8%2598.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2PM3JcoiHLIQQMbPC6-6SpoiNFajNSErmXVyM68eDI-6hgJgiS47Q7WdZmpNQwfhnF0jJ6mDaVDzQzznh23mr70q4tDLjsa2EZmKxLB9nhnErL9KbmpbwtoUF7X3nMmHdYT5gFukFYVB6/s400/%25E6%2597%25A5%25E6%259C%25AC%25E6%259B%25B8%25E8%25A8%2598.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">日本書紀写本</td></tr>
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這是經常被引述的所謂「禁止肉食之詔」。但閱讀此文則會發現,它並非全年禁肉食,而是冬季則未必禁例之內,而且豬肉、鹿肉、兔肉等仍然可以吃的。</span></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="color: #783f04;"><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="color: #783f04;">至於禁肉食與佛教之間的關係,則必須考慮親鸞<span lang="EN-US">(1173-1263)</span>推動的「惡人正機說」<b>── </b>若是只有遵守戒律的「善人」才能獲得救贖,那麼嘗試遵守戒律卻無法做到的「惡人」,將永遠無法得到救贖之機會。</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="color: #783f04;">因此,親鸞從「惡人」亦能獲得救贖的立場出發,身體力行地執行肉食妻帶,而親鸞的這思想被淨土真宗吸納繼承。由此可見日本的佛教觀與禁肉食之間也沒有「絕對」的關係。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #783f04;"><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">但是,有趣的現象是世人由禁肉食的「相對」觀念中衍生發明出一些隱語。例如,到了冬季就有肉食之故,逐漸形成將「薬喰」作為隱喻肉食,而排句中的薬喰便成為意指冬天的季語。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">例如,與謝蕪村</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">(1716-1783)</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">詠:「薬喰い人に語るな鹿ケ谷」(藥食,勿人外語,</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">鹿ケ谷</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">)</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">。</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">鹿ケ谷指京都地名。意指因</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">鹿ケ谷成為</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">史上密事的場所,因而借此典故譏諷以</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">薬喰</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">為美名的肉食行為。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #783f04;"><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">眾所皆知,只要提到日本的春天就是賞櫻花,秋天就是賞楓葉。但卻很少人知道說「賞櫻」時,可能指的是吃馬肉;而說「賞楓」則暗示要吃鹿肉。類似的隱語,如「柏」代表雞肉;「牡丹」指山豬肉,而「黑牡丹」指牛肉等。<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4e3ZiJbUkvvyVA4ncfuJPbnJ8Ux2RbadHMetR2_0OiI_UipujhKGIZF18jezJLumhwut6UMtH0zhAkJJCv8CJCSDMhQJgbrBeyEQpcPf2G0IxpPS0RnTtwn7vkN4ewERp6xBS1XSlg6OV/s1600/%25E8%2596%25AC%25E5%2596%25B0%25E3%2583%25BC%25E8%2595%25AA%25E6%259D%2591%25E4%25BF%25B3%25E5%258F%25A5.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4e3ZiJbUkvvyVA4ncfuJPbnJ8Ux2RbadHMetR2_0OiI_UipujhKGIZF18jezJLumhwut6UMtH0zhAkJJCv8CJCSDMhQJgbrBeyEQpcPf2G0IxpPS0RnTtwn7vkN4ewERp6xBS1XSlg6OV/s400/%25E8%2596%25AC%25E5%2596%25B0%25E3%2583%25BC%25E8%2595%25AA%25E6%259D%2591%25E4%25BF%25B3%25E5%258F%25A5.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">蕪村用「薬喰」的俳句</td></tr>
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這些別稱之形成與十七、八世紀德川綱吉<span lang="EN-US">(1646-1709)</span>頒布「禁止殺生之令」與當時逐漸發達的外食文化有關。在現代日語中,仍然可以看到上述這些背景所留下的軌跡,例如兔子是以「羽」作為量詞。這是由於前人有所隱諱,將四隻腳與兩隻腳的肉食混為一同,而山豬肉被稱為「山鯨」,也是有意將其混淆為海產物。透過這些例子,我們可以理解某一飲食文化是無法</span><span style="background: white; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">一言以敝之</span></span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="color: #783f04;">。</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012854766091126907.post-84375880985142311342015-05-28T06:16:00.003-07:002015-05-28T16:59:19.886-07:00「盛塩」與「門符」<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: 20.4pt; mso-pagination: widow-orphan;">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"> 2013</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">年底,「和食」被聯合國教科文組織登錄為無形文化遺產之後,台灣有些和食店主廚也開始審視其中的意涵,<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESiaFd2gQmuTpIUWeBa-pqfB_MbM-WCEb1dDekUjnvxon4_d9bXDFuDugthkYqWuu5x_4zQIUt84nmBQjV6ffp-RQJyXLn_IPWDiDyyS0yQCmJF3Wik57Y9ve3CRlIYVLIiCk4LDDW1eG/s1600/%25E7%259B%259B%25E5%25A1%25A9.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESiaFd2gQmuTpIUWeBa-pqfB_MbM-WCEb1dDekUjnvxon4_d9bXDFuDugthkYqWuu5x_4zQIUt84nmBQjV6ffp-RQJyXLn_IPWDiDyyS0yQCmJF3Wik57Y9ve3CRlIYVLIiCk4LDDW1eG/s1600/%25E7%259B%259B%25E5%25A1%25A9.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">料理店門口左右放置的盛塩</td></tr>
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似乎從鑽研店外到店內的事物都視為知識對象,這種態度令人敬佩。前些日子,有一店主廚向筆者問起,不知何故日本有不少料理店門外左右會放置白色圓錐物體,他對此擺設感到好奇。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"> 在日本它被通稱為「盛塩(もりしお)」。</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">雖然,盛塩的習俗在日本社會中常見,但因為它的形成與各地民俗信仰之間有繁複交錯的關係,所以不能恣意地一言以敝之。日本的塩,自古以來除了食用之外還扮演祭祀上的力量象徵。</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">對於不產岩塩的日本而言,塩皆是來自海岸,而它的純白結晶與殺菌作用被隱喻為清淨或<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYhvYEMwy2JXAo9oS1w7czzeQU4HEtJdoseV-aJK705-7hzLLHFw9MaiRvqERU-R6hxjpjj9SgZ1gPM4h8ZkCxEe0M3gCobTrn8_3cja_t28DZffHOP2z2pqzcNxG6gaZRVWsOCITHB_Ro/s1600/%25E6%25B8%2585%25E5%25A1%25A9.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYhvYEMwy2JXAo9oS1w7czzeQU4HEtJdoseV-aJK705-7hzLLHFw9MaiRvqERU-R6hxjpjj9SgZ1gPM4h8ZkCxEe0M3gCobTrn8_3cja_t28DZffHOP2z2pqzcNxG6gaZRVWsOCITHB_Ro/s320/%25E6%25B8%2585%25E5%25A1%25A9.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">橫綱力士與清塩</td></tr>
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純真。</span><br />
<span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">例如,當建造房屋時作為敬土地神之祭祀──地鎮祭(じちんさい),在四方角落皆放置盛塩,進而凝聚「結界」(けっかい)的清境。</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">而為要維護結界之分明,腳踏建築門檻被視為禁忌。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">另外,相撲力士踏上土俵時,力士會握一把白色的塩撒於即將競技的場地上,也是意指要維護結界的清淨性,這個稱之為「清塩」(きよめのしお)。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"> 大約<span lang="EN-US">14</span>世紀以後,和食文化蘊含著「伊勢信仰」的色彩。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">就像台灣常見的和食餐桌上的無垢箸中一款「天削箸」,其頭部的斜切形狀是仿效神宮屋頂上木條部材──「千木」(ちぎ)。至於伊勢神宮的神饌中所使用的塩,皆是伊勢市二見町的「御塩殿神社」(みしおどのじんじゃ)自製的。<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG367z0vVdlhTRNckPawOAbot5XwHdSrIrNdO03wAQ6uUiECDpQQTOIrSI1W7VBhg29EOnH-JFwwNZ0VeBBwRb-yyr-tZ-a2Io_X6-91V94HzC-3QO_hgBmT70zq29L0KRb5tczsE_C2_a/s1600/%25E5%258D%2583%25E6%259C%25A8.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG367z0vVdlhTRNckPawOAbot5XwHdSrIrNdO03wAQ6uUiECDpQQTOIrSI1W7VBhg29EOnH-JFwwNZ0VeBBwRb-yyr-tZ-a2Io_X6-91V94HzC-3QO_hgBmT70zq29L0KRb5tczsE_C2_a/s320/%25E5%258D%2583%25E6%259C%25A8.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">神宮屋頂上的 "千木"</td></tr>
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</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">因此,有些店家會特地將伊勢的海塩作為盛塩使用之外,當遇到「奧客」時,也會在客人走出店後抓塩撒於「門外」。此外,在日本常見的就是在參加葬禮之後,回家進門前要在身上撒上少許的塩。在此的撒塩則隱喻著有淨身除穢驅煞,斥走不淨或不好的人與事。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDUgMhED_gRA4ZdOMnepHCsiw4wZq-pa2Iqmd-ogKf1nB1xkSXN80kwTTHiVvvM9KmCDt0CwTFhxaYW-OuIAJfcdVBToVq9VS6VUmySYDLFixoXeFhNdunfrjcBgpt6ejR8Q5OZipE5Tcq/s1600/%25E5%258D%2583%25E5%25AE%25A2%25E8%2590%25AC%25E4%25BE%2586.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDUgMhED_gRA4ZdOMnepHCsiw4wZq-pa2Iqmd-ogKf1nB1xkSXN80kwTTHiVvvM9KmCDt0CwTFhxaYW-OuIAJfcdVBToVq9VS6VUmySYDLFixoXeFhNdunfrjcBgpt6ejR8Q5OZipE5Tcq/s320/%25E5%258D%2583%25E5%25AE%25A2%25E8%2590%25AC%25E4%25BE%2586.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">伊勢市內料理店的門符</td></tr>
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門,始終畫分內外的客觀指標。伊勢市二見町有「松下社」。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">這神社是日本民俗史中「門符」(かどふだ)的發祥地。</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">伊勢市的不少店家門口,</span></div>
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四季都掛各種門符,有的寫著「笑門」、也有的寫著「千客萬來」。<span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">這些門符與松下社中遺留「蘇民將來子孫家門」的神話──蘇民讓「素戔男尊」(スサノオノミコト)這位神祇進門入住後,唯蘇民一家不受疫情侵害的故事有關。</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">盛塩所凝聚的結界,相當於門符趨吉避凶之用意。和食之所以列入無形文化遺產,果然是從門外便開始蘊含著民俗信仰之故。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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引自 自由評論網 : <a href="http://talk.ltn.com.tw/article/breakingnews/1329528">盛塩與門符</a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012854766091126907.post-47529046396659635082015-05-28T05:47:00.002-07:002015-05-28T17:12:15.347-07:00「無垢箸」在 "和食膳" 中扮演的角色<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlBDKstAl1ID1xodmlEvqgbqyBaztO2FQnF80OVZ5aBhKQML7ZnYUL2xyJWCBE1wwd-aW9dHtU4WP121wOAlGEFAubb7a9B9pkSE14LID_wUYIhbwWjKH8sE4viIzk2IrtkMwfItPhei7L/s1600/%25E5%258D%25B5%25E4%25B8%25AD%25E7%25AE%25B8.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlBDKstAl1ID1xodmlEvqgbqyBaztO2FQnF80OVZ5aBhKQML7ZnYUL2xyJWCBE1wwd-aW9dHtU4WP121wOAlGEFAubb7a9B9pkSE14LID_wUYIhbwWjKH8sE4viIzk2IrtkMwfItPhei7L/s320/%25E5%258D%25B5%25E4%25B8%25AD%25E7%25AE%25B8.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">外食專用的 "無垢箸"<br />
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<span style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">台日中韓幾個使用筷子的國家中,只有日本的筷子是專屬於個人,而台灣與中韓則是與家人及客人混用。</span><span lang="JA" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">在日本的傳統食膳文化中,有所謂「塗箸」(ぬりばし),指表面上漆、甚至施與華麗樣式的筷子,是相對於無上漆而隱喻清淨的「無垢箸」(むくばし)之對義詞。<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip4wJivHPnXhGZLh6__bVUrkToBVVk-f-lyfwN_r9EFH9zqVABB75hjFEe6Jo6U-PP3Y9Xd9Jn5mGUxVPwA9OysaBQca38AMtY1iw474ZjyvxpgHW1FESXTy7ueyYjekpxizcEyHXWhbJd/s1600/%25E5%25A1%2597%25E7%25AE%25B8.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip4wJivHPnXhGZLh6__bVUrkToBVVk-f-lyfwN_r9EFH9zqVABB75hjFEe6Jo6U-PP3Y9Xd9Jn5mGUxVPwA9OysaBQca38AMtY1iw474ZjyvxpgHW1FESXTy7ueyYjekpxizcEyHXWhbJd/s1600/%25E5%25A1%2597%25E7%25AE%25B8.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">家庭內專用的 "塗箸"</span></td></tr>
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</span><span style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">「塗箸」屬於在家庭內使用,而且家庭成員每人都有其專用的筷子;相對地「無垢箸」則是用於餐廳或節日儀式的場合。</span><br />
<span style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">塗箸在家中重複使用,而無垢箸基本上於主人款待客人時僅使用一次,所以無論塗箸或無垢箸,筷子在日本的傳統食膳上皆專屬於個人而不與他人混用。</span><br />
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<span style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">至於在台灣的食膳文化,無論家中或餐廳,筷子非專屬於個人且重複使用,所以必</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">然會導致與他人混用的情形。<span lang="EN-US">1980</span>年代所謂「免洗筷」的出現,與筷子共用且清潔不佳而涉及的衛生問題有關。然而,不像無垢箸以具有芬多精的針葉樹做為材料,免洗筷多半以無抗菌能力的竹子製成,因此難免產生添加防腐劑、漂白劑的問題。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="JA" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">不過,「竹筷」在日本的傳統食膳,尤其懷石料裡中,有所謂「菜箸」(さいばし)的存在。</span><span style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">主人把新鮮的青竹削製成的「菜箸」,是指將料理分給客人椀中時使用的筷子。竹筷在日本的食膳中,因而發展成多樣的「菜箸」。</span><span lang="JA" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">例如,主人處理魚類,尤其將生魚片放置於皿上時使用的,比一般筷子細長的「真菜箸」</span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">(</span><span lang="JA" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">まなばし</span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">)</span><span lang="JA" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">。</span><span style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">因為「菜箸」未碰觸人的嘴巴,所以並不屬於個人,因而在料理店裡可被重複使用的筷子。<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06sQKBCmN-v5TRxnxht1-onLbvrSHRwCCDt1iKOa0DGqRq-A6cyVppnLrE0qQnEX5JyXjk17tU4Fqr-Bs6ESp9bTrk-ElVi2Lod8Too4pYaLzA1RwBlHuymsjlGkMlrkd8P7wjO0He31y/s1600/%25E8%258F%259C%25E7%25AE%25B8.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06sQKBCmN-v5TRxnxht1-onLbvrSHRwCCDt1iKOa0DGqRq-A6cyVppnLrE0qQnEX5JyXjk17tU4Fqr-Bs6ESp9bTrk-ElVi2Lod8Too4pYaLzA1RwBlHuymsjlGkMlrkd8P7wjO0He31y/s320/%25E8%258F%259C%25E7%25AE%25B8.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">始終不碰嘴巴的菜箸 (料理箸)<br />台灣的不少日本料理店,將它誤以為 "塗箸"</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">台灣部份的高級日本料理店,店家可能不了解各類筷子在日本食膳中的特殊意涵,而採取重複使用並與他人混用的作法;於是<s>將</s>積極提供家庭用的精美「塗箸」給客人,再者有些店家可能對於「竹筷」的一種親切感,將原來不碰觸嘴巴的「菜箸」,挪用為客人用餐的筷子。</span><span lang="JA" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">因此,一般消費者無法理解「無垢箸」與款待客人</span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">(</span><span lang="JA" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">所謂「おもてなし」</span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">)</span><span lang="JA" style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">的文化因素,甚至誤解了「塗箸」的文化涵義。</span><span style="color: #783f04; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">如同吃西餐時有該用的餐具一般,日本的傳統食膳中有該用的食器。享受美味料理與理解料理文化,確實有一段距離的。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">關於「塗箸」<span lang="EN-US">: </span></span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">參閱 <a href="http://www.wajimahashi.com/">輪島塗岩多製箸所</a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">引自,自由時報: <a href="http://news.ltn.com.tw/news/opinion/paper/820120">筷子在日本食膳中扮演的角色</a><span lang="EN-US"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012854766091126907.post-80209168796313931532015-05-28T05:17:00.001-07:002015-05-28T17:12:55.601-07:00借鏡日本料理店,思考台灣林業的未來<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"> 最近,台北的「山花」、桃園的「都鮨」等,正宗日本料理店開始引進「日本產檜木<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E9%96%93%E4%BC%90%E6%9D%90"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: blue;"><span lang="EN-US">間伐材</span></span></a></span>」的</span><u><span lang="EN-US" style="color: blue; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;"><a href="http://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E7%84%A1%E5%9E%A2%E7%AE%B8"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: blue;">無垢箸</span></a></span></u><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">款待消費者。由於這些店家的心意,讓我們消費者重新省思所謂的「保護森林」觀,甚至要面對「台灣產檜木間伐材」究竟如何活用的問題。<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpXwtM85MB5rFPaTE2I-l0A60fwBVwUzmUAphmEKb6XRKno7wgQ5nJQV5lT2UUrb1smTEsHG4gPCWpACaag_mHqfov81ic_LudhyphenhyphenLHPkiHMqKhj_YKnXWOecmyOdLdUpYY1Owy0mxxrcMN/s1600/%25E9%2583%25BD.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpXwtM85MB5rFPaTE2I-l0A60fwBVwUzmUAphmEKb6XRKno7wgQ5nJQV5lT2UUrb1smTEsHG4gPCWpACaag_mHqfov81ic_LudhyphenhyphenLHPkiHMqKhj_YKnXWOecmyOdLdUpYY1Owy0mxxrcMN/s320/%25E9%2583%25BD.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">桃園,都鮨的食膳</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">在此所謂「間伐」乃相對於「皆伐」而言,就如同在農田裡必須適當「間苗」才能養育農作物一般,「間伐」是指人造林中定期間隔伐樹的林業經營的重要概念。「間伐」而獲得的木材,因為屬於林業上持續產生的副資源,所以只要能善加活用,不但可促成林業資源的產業鏈,並幫助活化人造林的資源環境。</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">然而,相對於日本,台灣住宅用途的木材供需量並不大,所以如何恢復已消失的台灣林業市場,才是關鍵。</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">台灣的森林面積約二一<span lang="EN-US">○</span>萬公頃,其中「人造林」面積占了廿%。因此,近幾年林業當局推動「間伐材」利用的諸政策,例如,近日屏東林區管理處委託屏科大舉辦了木材創作競賽。該活動以林管處提供的「台灣產檜木間伐材」作為材料,讓競賽者創作椀、筷子、湯匙等餐具,期以提高間伐材的應用。<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAFl8cVJ1j62xS8UX9cc2gSXPAKBSxBh4goJTmOIrRH76bLnEyREil8NE954_V2JEqHhzQQaxDLEGWxkhNZg5vZ8gIHhLCKsJYSWge_nPks9N4J5VPQbti9k7XIojQTMhR0cf3PpyvJhBR/s1600/%25E9%2596%2593%25E4%25BC%2590%25E6%259D%2590.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAFl8cVJ1j62xS8UX9cc2gSXPAKBSxBh4goJTmOIrRH76bLnEyREil8NE954_V2JEqHhzQQaxDLEGWxkhNZg5vZ8gIHhLCKsJYSWge_nPks9N4J5VPQbti9k7XIojQTMhR0cf3PpyvJhBR/s320/%25E9%2596%2593%25E4%25BC%2590%25E6%259D%2590.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">間伐的原理<br />
資料提供: 聯安國際有限公司</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">但是,在此同時需要思考的是,目前因應「保護森林」觀念及垃圾處理問題,環保署公告規定政府公部門、學校內餐廳僅可提供可重複使用的餐具,而一般餐廳也由於如此考量,結果多採用<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E4%B8%89%E8%81%9A%E6%B0%B0%E8%83%BA-%E7%94%B2%E9%86%9B%E6%A0%91%E8%84%82"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: blue;"><span lang="EN-US">美耐皿</span></span></a></span>餐具。現今,為推廣「台灣產檜木間伐材」較大規模的應用並構築產業鏈,確實需要重新摸索木製餐具流通的可能性。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">與其說,日本社會早已構築「日本產檜木間伐材」的產業鏈,倒不如說,借鏡如上述日本料理店的實踐,台灣的林業界也可以恢復健全的產業鏈。若基於「保護森林」觀念而不能在人造林中砍伐樹木,豈不是與不能在農地上採收農作物一般?需要理解的是「活用間伐材才能保護森林」這個觀點。我們要冷靜思索的是,同樣面對植物,人們對於農業能夠理解「間苗」而採收之必要,對於養育森林上,是否自然也有「間伐」之必要?<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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引自<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif; font-size: 13.5pt;">自由時報: <a href="http://news.ltn.com.tw/news/opinion/paper/813926">借鏡日本料理,思考台灣林業的未來</a></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012854766091126907.post-74411777525892810982015-05-28T03:39:00.001-07:002015-05-28T17:09:08.482-07:00「懷石」料理是什麼?<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;"> 近年,台日料理人展開諸多懷石料理的交流活動,但所謂「懷石」的歷史意涵並不常被探討,與「會席」料理的關係也不易釐清。結果,這兩者產生了意義混淆,以致有的雜誌不按史實而提出:「會席料理則是從懷石料理分出的支線」的說法。</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">懷石與會席這兩個詞彙,因為日文發音相同──かいせき</span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">(Kaiseki)</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">,所以就算在日本,若不先表明漢字,則無法確定指的是懷石還是會席,而彼此難以進行</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;">深度</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">討論。<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCazJGL7wL1lyg4WGtBUpBQ2rPbETz-kRw2VVeVcMh7y8ksFFN-eo6iCjqCZagDHO7RYIqmgFgatnfKJFIw4zzLo6hqRTJcPSt-S3wELpzpqGu51c1Z0JVKXetnDgpI9JCTAoHOH5Z4INV/s1600/%25E7%25BE%258E%25E7%259A%2584%25E8%25A1%25A8%25E7%258F%25BE.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCazJGL7wL1lyg4WGtBUpBQ2rPbETz-kRw2VVeVcMh7y8ksFFN-eo6iCjqCZagDHO7RYIqmgFgatnfKJFIw4zzLo6hqRTJcPSt-S3wELpzpqGu51c1Z0JVKXetnDgpI9JCTAoHOH5Z4INV/s320/%25E7%25BE%258E%25E7%259A%2584%25E8%25A1%25A8%25E7%258F%25BE.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">會席料理</td></tr>
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<span style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">日本料理的形態,雖然隨著時代而變化,但是各料理的沿革皆有史料可尋,因此研究者之間有一定的共識。就「會席」一詞,在十七世紀之前指茶湯之會、饗宴之席等多義詞。主張日本特有的「侘<span lang="EN-US">(Wabi)</span>」美學概念的茶祖村田珠光<span lang="EN-US">(1422-1502)</span>,與中興者武野紹鷗<span lang="EN-US">(1502-1555)</span>皆是禪僧。</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">茶道書《山上宗二記》有云:「茶湯出於禪宗」。而武野紹鷗的弟子千利休<span lang="EN-US">(1522-1591)</span>,集大成露地草庵的「侘茶」,讓後人體悟了作為禪修的生活美學。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">到了十七世紀末,也就是千利休沒世後約百年,一群茶人為了牽制當時茶道各流派,成立特異於主流風格而提出「懷石」。即是以與「會席」同發音的「懷石」來反諷茶湯之會落入奢侈的情形。當時,薮内竹心<span lang="EN-US">(1678-1745)</span>寫《源流茶話》主張回歸千利休的生活美學,並告誡恣意改造此道統的風氣。其實「懷石」一詞,首次出現在立花實山<span lang="EN-US">(1655-1708)</span>所編撰《南方錄》。《南方續錄》云:「懷石,同於禪林云藥石,溫石於懷中」,指禪修者將溫熱的石頭放在懷中以耐飢寒。由此典故可得而知,將「會席」改稱作「懷石」所要傳達之意境。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1dCBE-yLMdACaijD4kjVJKloS8lzt1nwjbi95g-C7-OH6twwtKOkK5wo8sZzPsnAYrj1-m9W71KoXQDQO2_fZ1DydFz-Y7Kw07bki4Je65wpbVdOPkAGBRdd3XVtFX6uggsdH2GyLH7V/s1600/%25E6%2587%25B7%25E7%259F%25B3.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1dCBE-yLMdACaijD4kjVJKloS8lzt1nwjbi95g-C7-OH6twwtKOkK5wo8sZzPsnAYrj1-m9W71KoXQDQO2_fZ1DydFz-Y7Kw07bki4Je65wpbVdOPkAGBRdd3XVtFX6uggsdH2GyLH7V/s320/%25E6%2587%25B7%25E7%259F%25B3.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">懷石料理</td></tr>
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</span><span style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">十七世紀末是江戶時代經濟最繁榮,但也是幕府財政惡化的時代。由此觀之,繼承「侘」美學的茶人批判奢華的茶湯之會、饗宴之席等,反映了當時的社會背景。</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">文化史研究者熊倉功夫</span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">(1943-)</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">著〈千家流の懷石〉中說明:「桃山的懷石」</span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">(</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">即是千利休時代的茶湯之會</span><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">)</span><span lang="JA" style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">概念與「現代的會席」之間的異同,而言及桃山的懷石概念裡並沒有如現代的會席一般,在主食之前有酒、生魚片等豐富菜餚。</span><span style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">諷刺的是,現今被台灣日本料理界以為奢華料理的「懷石」,在史實對應的卻是十七世紀茶人所批判的「會席」。現今,享用「懷石」料理之同時,可以重新審視其中是否蘊含了「侘」美學的傳統精神。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; color: #990000; font-family: "Arial Unicode MS",sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;"><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">引自《聯合報》<a href="http://paper.udn.com/udnpaper/PID0004/262701/web/#6L-5059318L">「懷石」料理是什麼</a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><a href="http://paper.udn.com/udnpaper/PID0004/262701/web/#6L-5059318L">?</a></span> </span></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012854766091126907.post-74381458898160099642015-05-28T03:06:00.000-07:002015-05-28T17:09:39.211-07:00無垢箸,如何擺放才妥當?<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;"> 眾所皆知,筷子在中華料理的餐桌上直式擺放,筷尖向前,而日本料理呈橫式擺放,筷尖向左。但很少人知道,這兩者的差異來自於中國的餐桌上之變化,而日本卻自古以來未改變筷子擺放的方向。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;">近年,高倉洋彰著《箸の考古學》以唐宋時期的繪畫提供了一些例證;唐朝《辜氏族墓壁畫》、《敦煌莫高窟,</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;">473</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;">窟壁畫》皆描寫宴會,餐桌上有筷子呈「橫式」擺放,而到了宋朝《清明上河圖》畫中卻將筷子「直式」擺放。</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;">這可能是在唐宋之間的五代十國動亂期,受到外族的飲食文化影響,逐漸改變了餐具的擺放方向。</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyYhStQ2-Fj2MCwG5nyOBBuNqSU7tYeAsruWOXnV3FWzjfTBKQpUSvQ2FP3O7VAVaNcmDOMRcqa33syf2LD5-054j4hKoXff1aX0QnotVpoDSH9mF4ZqptjyNGauYPHpr4JXtG2tASRNZ2/s1600/%25E6%25B8%2585%25E6%2598%258E%25E5%259C%2596.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="105" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyYhStQ2-Fj2MCwG5nyOBBuNqSU7tYeAsruWOXnV3FWzjfTBKQpUSvQ2FP3O7VAVaNcmDOMRcqa33syf2LD5-054j4hKoXff1aX0QnotVpoDSH9mF4ZqptjyNGauYPHpr4JXtG2tASRNZ2/s400/%25E6%25B8%2585%25E6%2598%258E%25E5%259C%2596.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">宋朝《清明上河圖》</span></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;">無論古今或東西方,將肉塊放置餐盤上的料理,需要把刀子直式擺放在盤子側方,刀尖向前而皆不採用橫式擺放。</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;">例如,元朝的蒙古族,舊時以刀筷做為用餐道具;滿州族的清廷也將刀子和筷子直式擺放,延續成為現今中華料理的食制。總之,筷子的直放或橫放與刀子的接觸史有密切關聯。</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK5FPR0RcRI-3-nxhYEu91b05yYVwfCz_5xsO15hnZ1rswUmvUpZwZvxdUt8NTVoK6P8xI1Kq6TwwD1Aj79jeMtnJVYYPj8UhJOOjaemPNApRRd_6dPGdjfm68OLtpUbw0v8f5kPNHYZaj/s1600/%25E9%25BE%258D%25E5%2590%259F%25E7%259B%25B4%25E6%2594%25BE.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK5FPR0RcRI-3-nxhYEu91b05yYVwfCz_5xsO15hnZ1rswUmvUpZwZvxdUt8NTVoK6P8xI1Kq6TwwD1Aj79jeMtnJVYYPj8UhJOOjaemPNApRRd_6dPGdjfm68OLtpUbw0v8f5kPNHYZaj/s320/%25E9%25BE%258D%25E5%2590%259F%25E7%259B%25B4%25E6%2594%25BE.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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台北龍吟的食膳</div>
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龍吟提供日本的高級料亭使用的"傳統無垢箸"</div>
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但是這擺法,並不是 "日本傳統料理"的食膳</div>
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圖片: 中時電子報</div>
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<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;"> 近日新聞報導,<span lang="EN-US"><span lang="EN-US"><span lang="EN-US">東京米其林三星日本料理店「龍吟」</span></span></span>的台北分店,今年九月於赫士盟的大直旗艦大樓內開幕。聽聞這個消息,同時需要知道山本征治主廚的精湛手藝,以及對日本料理傳統的深度了解。我們可以注意到東京龍吟使用<span lang="EN-US"><span lang="EN-US"><span lang="EN-US">「無垢箸」</span></span></span>,即是日本傳統懷石料理中所謂「卵中箸」,但其擺設卻大膽採取了筷尖向前的直式。雖然還不知道「龍吟」台北分店採用何種筷子又其擺設方向為何,但主廚以筷尖向前的擺法,隱約表現了挑戰傳統的食制。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;"> 傳統與創新,是料理人必須面對的命題。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;">日本有一句食膳上的成語:「箸に始まり、箸に終わる(以筷子開始,也以筷子結束)」,這意思是,如同以雙手手指拿起,雙手手指放置一般,在食膳上從拿起筷子到放下筷子的過程皆有禮儀規範。</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;">其實,若筷子直式擺放,實踐該禮儀就並不太順手了。造訪高級餐廳時,除了享受美味與裝潢氣氛之外,我們還是需要知道傳統與創新之間的拉鋸之處,才能體會料理人欲傳達的「新型態」的意涵。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 13.5pt;">原文載於《自由時報》<a href="http://talk.ltn.com.tw/article/paper/795580">筷子如何擺放才妥當?</a> (<span lang="EN-US">2014,7,13)</span></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2012854766091126907.post-68313093174988692102015-05-28T02:30:00.001-07:002015-05-28T17:11:33.736-07:00「無垢箸」並不等於「免洗筷」<div style="background: white; line-height: 22.5pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm; mso-outline-level: 2;">
<span style="color: #741b47;"><b><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;"> </span></b></span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt;">一九八<span lang="EN-US">○</span>年代的台灣,由於肝炎帶原者眾,政府單位鼓勵民眾使用所謂的免洗餐具,後來開始考量垃圾處理問題和森林保育意識,環保署於二<span lang="EN-US">○○</span>六年公告建議民眾於一般餐廳內使用可重複使用的筷子,或可自然分解材質的一次性筷子,因而現今在餐廳裡常見美耐皿(<span lang="EN-US">melamine resin</span>)筷子或竹筷子。但前者有材質純度與釋出三聚氰胺的疑慮,而後者有二氧化硫等添加化學藥劑的問題。雖然筷子是構成東方飲食文化的必要條件,但在台灣筷子似僅不過是把將食物放進嘴裡的工具,其中的文化價值便被忽視了!</span><br />
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</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">日本的筷子文化則大為不同。筷子在日本料理店中轉換成隱喻「一期一會」的符號。法國的文化評論家羅蘭.巴特(<span lang="EN-US">Roland Barthes</span>)曾說:「日本料理的食物幾乎不被料理。<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">羅蘭.巴特的名著<br />
"表徵的帝國"</td></tr>
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將食料以生鮮狀態顯現在食膳上。食物所受到的唯一調理,就是切割。」延伸而言,日本料理中「不被料理」的不僅是生鮮食材,筷子也不例外。傳統日本料理所用的「無垢箸」,即是將杉木或檜木「以生鮮狀態」顯現在食膳上。</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">「無垢」一詞源自梵文<span lang="EN-US">a-mala</span>,佛典上有清淨純真之意。在日本的食膳中提供由原木切割,無木節且無上漆的筷子,表示注重這場合的唯一性而誠心款待的意思,「一期一會」就是指如此的精神寓意。</span><br />
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</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">米其林三星的日本料理店都會提供無垢箸,其中又以「利久箸」為最多。這款式的緣起,約四百年前的安土桃山時代,茶人千利休(<span lang="EN-US">Sen no Rikyu</span>)款待客人之際,將杉木親自削成兩端尖細中間較粗,做成專屬於此貴客的御箸,這形狀通稱為「兩口箸」或「卵中箸」,也借千利休之名而稱為「利休箸」。<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">卵中箸<br />
提供照片:聯安國際有限公司</td></tr>
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但江戶時代的商人禁忌「利休」有利益休息的字義而有些改寫為「利久」。由此歷史淵源可知,「無垢箸」並不等同於台灣社會脈絡中的「免洗筷」。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">今日台灣的高級日本料理店,有些講究高貴食材和裝潢,但卻放置了美耐皿筷子。這表示店主可能不了解生魚片與無垢箸之間存有的隱喻,僅將筷子視為把食物放進嘴裡的工具,進而忘卻了「一期一會」的涵義。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14.0pt;">二<span lang="EN-US">○</span>一三年,和食被聯合國科教文組織登錄為無形文化遺產。國際間注目傳統料理的現今,台灣消費者或可借鏡「無垢箸」而重新認識各地區的筷子文化。</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: 標楷體; font-size: 14pt; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">引自<a href="http://talk.ltn.com.tw/article/paper/789653">〈自由廣場〉生魚片與「無垢箸」</a><span lang="EN-US">(2014-06-22)<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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